When I built the Simucube direct-drive wheel to replace my Fanatec CSW v2, I used Bluetooth as a temporary solution to get the paddle shifters working, but what about a permanent solution? And getting the rest of the buttons and LEDs to work?! Enter the Bodnar-Fanatec USB Conversion PCB…
When I disassembled the steering wheel, I noticed a bad soldering job on the circuit board — pins 3 and 4 are lumped together. 🙁
Oops! Bad soldering at the Fanatec factory.
Step 1: Add Pins to the Bodnar PCB
My goal here was to make it so that I could return the Fanatec Formula Rim to factory condition, in case I ever upgrade the wheel or decide to sell it. Bodnar does sell a solderless version of the board, what what fun would that be?! So, step 1 was to add some pins to the Bodnar PCB so I could connect some cabling.
Step 2: Fix Connecting Wires to the Bodnar PCB
I used a couple off-the-shelf components for wiring, plus some simple 1-pin wires I had laying around. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the specs on the 8-pin connector (smaller, closer pins than the bottom and USB connections).
Apologies for the blurry photo, not sure what happened there.
Step 3: Fix Connecting Wires to the Fanatec PCB
I used some 1-pin jumper wires for the 6-pins at the bottom of the board. For fit and finish, would be nice to find a 6-pin connector, but the biggest I had in my spare parts bin was for 5-pins.
Step 3: Re-assemble and Test
My 70mm-52mm adapter is too big and prevents re-installation of the plastic covers. The bottom one would be nice because then I could put a bung in and that would make the USB connection cleaner. Instead, (not pictured) I passed an electric tie thru one of the spare bolt holes to cinch it into place and prevent stress on the wires & pins.
- Bodnar-Fanatec USB Conversion PCB: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=236